What is the best natural way to eliminate pests and fungus from rose bushes??

I don't want to use harmful chemicals. There are few enough bees left in the world as it is.What is the best natural way to eliminate pests and fungus from rose bushes??
You still need to use these methods in rotation so the fungi do not develope increased resistance.


Basic Cornell Spray: For Control Of Blackspot %26amp; Powdery Mildew: Do not substitute vegetable oil spray for the summer weight agricultural oil, it doesn't emulsify in suspension when water is added. SunSpray contains a sticker so no soap is necessary, with other oils you may need a few drops of dishwashing liquid. Another tip I have learned is to spray this in the evening, around or just after supper time. Do not spray this in the hottest part of the day.


2tbs Horticultural Oil (Sunspray or Volk Oil)


1tbs of baking soda


Add to 1 gallon of water and spray leaf surfaces LIGHTLY, not to dripping. Reapply every two weeks.


This will help to control powdery mildew and blackspot as well as other fungal diseases on roses.





Another really good method is milk spray ...... 1 part milk to 7 parts water. Dried milk works as well as fresh. In 1999, a Brazilian scientist found that milk helped control powdery mildew on cucumbers just as effectively as a synthetic fungicide. So far, there has been success reported on the use of milk to control powdery mildew on a variety of plants and an affective control of black spot on roses.





Cornmeal


Dust the ground around roses with cornmeal, and water in. This helps to eliminate black spot spores that attack roses, and also helps to eliminate the spores in the soil around roses.


Several recipes have come from Garret the 'Dirt Doctor'


2 qt Compost Tea


1 pint Cider Vinegar


1 pint Liquefied Seaweed


1 pint Blackstrap Molasses


Mix all ingredients together. For spraying, use 1 1⁄2 cups of mix per 1 gallon of water.


Add 1-2 oz citrus oil to kill pests


A new aproach is to use Harpin, a protein produced by a bacteria that causes fire blight. Exposure to the pathogen starts the plants resistance to pathogens and insects. This kick starts the plant to protect itself just as our immune systems work to protect us after we get an inoculation.


Studies show it enhances growth of a wide range of plants that are treated with the protein. It will be the start of an whole new way of protecting our plants. Unfortunately it is expensive, as all new drugs are. The drugs name is Messenger.





A home brewed compost tea is very effective in providing the beneficial bacteria and fungi if it is well aerated.


Put a shovel full of good compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water, wait one week, and apply to garden or lawn either full strength or up to a 1:4 water ratio. This is an excellent source of ready available soluble nutrients. NOTE: If you stir your brew daily or every other day, it helps get more oxygen to the mix for better decomposition and better aerobic microbial population growth. Un-aerated teas can continue to keep alive some aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic microbes, for up to 10 days in a watery solution. After 10 days, the whole un-aerated tea will contain only anerobic microbes. Unless the brew is aerated it will not grow benefiial fungi


Options to the basic recipe;


Add to the recipe a few cups of alfalfa pellets or seed meal. Now you have extra nitrogen and trace elements for bacterial foods.





Add an air pump bubbler, a cheap aquarium air pump. This grows more aerobic microbes to add to your soluble nutrients in the tea and, hopefully fungi also. Contain the ingredients in an old nylon to keep it out of the pump.





Add a few T of molasses or other simple sugar products. This will maximize the aerobic microbes in the tea, which in turn produce even more soluble nutrients. Sugar products are mostly carbon which is what the microherd eat quickest so more can be added after three days.


Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. Supplied extra NPK, fish oil for beneficial fungi, calcium from fish bones. Most commercial fish emulsions contain no fish oils and little to no aerobic bacteria.


Add comfrey or nettles.


Comfrey is called knitbone or healing herb. It is high in calcium, potassium and phosphorus, and also rich in vitamins A and C. The nutrients present in comfrey actually assist in the healing process since it contains allantoin.


Nettles are helpful to stimulate fermentation in compost or manure piles and this helps to break down other organic materials in your planting soil. The plant is said to contail carbonic acid and ammonia which may be the fermentation factor. Nettles are rich in iron and have as much protein as cottonseed meal.


Use rainwater or de-chlorinated tap water. You can make good ';rain water'; from tap water by adding a little Tang (citrus acid) to the water mix before brewing.


Add 1-2 T of apple cider vinegar to add about 30 extra trace minerals and to add the acidicity that is present in commercial fish emulsions. Many fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid to help it preserve on the shelf and add needed sulfur to the soil.


You can add extra magnesium and sulfur by adding 1-2 T of Epsom salt to the tea.





Pesticides


USDA recommends


1T of liquid dishwashing soap--the brand doesn't matter


1 c vegetable oil. Scientists believe that canola oil repels insects by altering the outer layer of the leaf surface or by acting as an insect irritant. Canola oil appears to have no adverse effects on humans or the environment. Soybean oil is widely available and has demonstrated good to moderate control on many species of pests. Soybean oil can also aid in suppression of powdery mildew.





When you're ready to spray, add one or two teaspoons of the oil-and-soap solution to a cup of water. Pour that into a sprayer and shake well.


Do not spray when temps are above 80 degrees Fahrenheit! Your plants may ';burn'; or have a reaction to what you are using in excessive heat. This is known as ';phytotoxicity.';


Lady birds are predatory beetles but it is really the juvenile stage that does the most pest control. An adult female Lady Beetle may consume up to 75 aphids a day while the smaller male may consume up to 40. One larva may eat up to 350 aphids during its life span.


While it will, in the long run, help your problem getting the beetles established and reproducing takes time. The females deposit their eggs in clusters of up to a dozen per mass. The larvae hatch from the eggs in about a week and immediately start to consume aphids or other appropriate food. In a little less than a month they pupate and the pupal period lasts only about one week. When the adults emerge they too feed on aphids, but as fall approaches they may eat some pollen which supplies fat for winter hibernation.


The juveniles resemble tiny, six- legged alligators, blue-black in colour with orange spots. They are only 1/4 inch long.


http://www.buglogical.com/greenlacewings…What is the best natural way to eliminate pests and fungus from rose bushes??
ive been told mix a little dish detergent with water in a spray bottle then spray them every day it will keed bugs away make sure you spray under the leaves that is where most bugs hide
for the pests--mix together some ivory dishsoap, %26amp; a bit of borax into a watering can full of water then pour that over the bushes. Last year something was eating all the leaves off my roses and this solution worked like a charm. all new leaves grew back %26amp; it looked great.
milk for fungus and a mix of tobacco and water for bugs.